Apprenticing under the likes of Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Zac Posen, are only a handful of the extensive credentials under the belt of London-based, Canadian born designerEdeline Lee.

The presentation of designer's AW16 collection was the sixth season of the designer participating in London Fashion Week. Her fashion presentations are recognised internationally - by both the arts and fashion communities - for her experimentation with film and live performance used for building an immersive experience for viewers.

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Lee's presentation at London Fashion Week was greatly anticipated. With a queue of people filling the courtyard and spilling out onto the street outside The Vinyl Factory - the eagerness to view Lee's work was palpable. This was Lee's second experience of presenting in The Vinyl Factory space. The interior decor reflected the confidence and surety of a creator who has established a signature aesthetic and presentation style.

Inside the building, down a ramp, beneath ground level, the presentation was an explosive surrealist landscape of colour and geometric shapes. The onlookers were invited to view the designs, unrestricted by borders or barriers. Yet, all retained a distance using the checked floor decor as a voluntary boundary. The models were positions sporadically around the room, almost dwarfed by the Alice in Wonderland-style interior. Instead of being lost among the colourful piles or confetti, angular mirror installations and checkerboard panelling, the models were effectively framed and pronounced. Periodically, one or more of the models would relocate themselves in the space. The controlled and calculated repositioning suggested a nod to the harmonious nature of the collection. Lee invited the viewers to play imaginary dress up where the ready-to-wear impression of the garments in the AW16 designs became highlighted.

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The colour palette of the collection appeared to have been built around neutral tones of beige, black and blue that became juxtaposed with the sophisticated pops of colours added by Lee, including a bold red floor length dress with a plunged neckline and one of her loosely tailored coats. The only feature, which seems disjointed with the collection, was the fabric choice of a metallic space grey. It became evidently ill-fitting with the neutral colour scope of the rest of the collection and uncomplimentary to the floral fabrics. Regardless of the red garments having a similar potential of clashing with the majority of the garments within the collection, they - in fact - turned out to be vibrant and coherent additions to the collection. The colour red allowed the creation of statement garments occur and shine on their own but it also highlighted the rest of the pieces in the collection.

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Edeline Lee's AW16 collection is defined by a playfulness of piping, loose tailoring, minimalist floral details and the aforementioned pop of red. She has succeeded in producing designs that exude her aesthetically sophisticated signature style, including structural elements balanced with feminine shapes, while being underpinned by clean modest lines. The collection exudes an element of comfort and accessibility. Through impeccable tailoring and chic minimalism, Lee has succeeded to create something that is wearable with a couture twist.

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