The latest edition of 'Food Corner' is brought to you by Phèdre (April Aliermo).

There is no better place to eat than at my Mom's house. Too bad for everyone else in the world that she doesn't have a restaurant. She makes the most incredible Filipino food. Whenever I am over for dinner, I end up with the worst stomach ache from over eating. It's the only time I ever wish my guts were enormously never ending. And mamma won't make just one dish either. A typical Sunday meal will have Ginataang Hipon, Crispy Pata, Lumpia, and of course, the essential pot of rice. Writing about this is making me feel awful because I am starving right now and there is no chance of me eating any of this tonight.

Ginataang Hipon

It warms your entire mouth, throat, belly and general being. A coconut stew with ginger, shrimp, eggplant, squash and green beans. No matter how many times I try, I just can't make it as good as mom's.

Crispy Pata

Mamma gets a pig's thigh. She boils it. She cooks it on low in the oven over the entire night. She broils the hell out of it. Holy shit. So fucking delicious. Crispy, all kinds of crispy skin on the outside, and tender meats on the inside. Best to eat with hands. And rice.


How does she make the fattest, tastiest spring rolls? Sometimes filled with all kinds of vegetables. Sometimes also with meat. She fries 'em up and then sticks 'em in the oven so that the grease drips out. And anyway, who even makes spring rolls and stew and delicious meat all at once for one meal??!

Photo: Mom w/ Pop, Chinatown, NY, late 70's.