4am in London on way to airport, our journey starts with a fantastic coincidence: we share the same taxi as Philip Glass, who happens to be in London performing a live soundtrack of Dracula at The Hackney Empire, Not at all a bad start to days on the road and quite a good omen, we think.   We arrive in Milan at midday and head to the Stazione Centrale. We need to make our way to the south of Italy, to Lecce, a beautiful seaside town where we are scheduled to play our first gig on a stage set on the beach. Phantom: Buongiorno! Do you speak English? We'd like to reserve out train seats to Lecce Milan ticket master: Yes, un poco. Impossible! Train full! Phantom: What?! No! Any other train we could take earlier, later, tomorrow? Milan ticket master: Impossible! Train full! Phantom: (frantic) But we need to get to Lecce, how else can we get there? Milan ticket master: Impossible! Train full. Phantom: Bus? Bicycle? Tram? Mule? Hitchike? Milan ticket master: Impossible! Train full. Phantom: Do you drive? Milan ticket master: No. Train full. Phantom: We can play you a song in exchange for your help *eyelashes flutter* Milan ticket master: Ok. I find a train for you. So there you have it. It seems the Italians are partial to a bit of musica, maybe just not in a train station...but we have found a way to charm them. We make our way to Lecce - that's a whole 9 hours on the train - admire the blur of the Italian countryside through our window, and get ready for our next surprises At first sight, outside the train station at 1.30am, Lecce is a town full of roaming dogs. Our contact, Tobia, picks us up and our introduction to real Italian life begins. We are taken to a bar for one "quick" drink before heading to our beds. We soon find out that there never really is such a thing as "quick" here. Tobia walks us through small alleyways, courtyards rammed with people drinking, dancing on the streets, some lounging on outside couches and chaise-lounges lit only by street lanterns and fairy lights. After such a long trip (9 hours on a train) this is certainly a surreal and charming scene. Our first gig is held at held at Bueneaventura, a venue a set on the beach of San Foca. It's the favourite hang-out for locals to drink and dance until 7am every Saturday. The stage is set right on the beach, in fact, we kept looking at the tide, worried it might wash away our pedals boards. The sea is rough, the wind is blowing hard and lightning flashes in distance clouds. The locals tell us that a storm is brewing, quite apt, we think, for PHANTOM's first gig - we are harbingers of doom! After a great gig in near-darkness (the light levels in the venue are in "mood" mode), we sell a bunch of CD's, sink a few Martini Rossos and fall asleep on the beach, in the sand, making our way back at 7am.... What's next for Phantom's adventures in Italy, who can say... Next report in a few days. http://www.myspace.com/thisisphantomuk