The winter blues might be real, but a spark was not lit until Lyz Olko set up her presentation at St. Mark’s Church in Manhattan’s bohemian enclave of East Village. Set away from the glitz and glam of Skylight Clarkson Square, Olko's show 'I am On Fire' was the perfect antithesis: gritty, raw and very punk rock.

Choreographed by artist Alexandra Marzella, the models (both men and women artists/dancers cast by Marzella) danced in circles, writhed and collapsed on the floor like Madonna at the 1984 VMAs. It was a parade of gleaming silver lurex, chiffon, poplin and tulle in hues from red to black. Bold details like armor-like sleeves on dresses and tiered ruffles on sweatshirts were not to be missed. The legs of male and female models were grazed by thigh-high skimming skirts and the torsos covered by hoodies.

Like a harried group of children trying to catch a bus ride, they ran to the altar, where they bowed in front of a choir. Unlike most presentations, the models hugged, talked and pet the heads of attendees. While designers usually end their show in a bow or a wave, Olko joined her cast, who were holding candles as cigarettes at the finale.

Amongst the hodgepodge of fabrics, Olko’s collection was inspired by athletic wear, armour and ballerinas. However, her main inspiration for 'I Am Fire' was no other than Joan of Arc.

"Joan of Arc was the perfect heroine for this collection because she didn't fit in but, [she] didn't care. She stood up for the right things. She is still a symbol of strength, defiance, and female unity worldwide," said Olko.

While the warrior queen in armour reference was not entirely noticeable, her influence was well-presented in other manifestations such as Olko’s passion for sustainability and animal rights. (Frankly, that wasn’t something that we could find in any other show at NYFW!)

"The collection uses sustainable methods of production, [it] is made in NYC and LA. We use recycled fabrics in many different ways and all the shoes were vegan, [which were] sponsored by Dr. Martens," said Olko.

While Olko has yet to break into the great game like her contemporary Demna Gvasalia of Vetements, watch this space for the girl on fire.