Victor Barragán came in like a wrecking ball. For his official debut with MADE at New York Fashion Week (NYFW), his Spring/Summer 2017 presentation was held at the Standard High Line, which sponsored the show for the fashion platform. Although he had yet to fully establish his name in the same ranks as Alexander Wang, Barragán was ready to take down the establishment one swing at a time.

Crammed in a conference-sized room, the runway was a foundation built with a ramp. Behind it, a screen flashed the New York-by-way-of-Mexico designer’s last name in front of falling rocks. Surrounding the runway, the room was filled with club kids, friends of the designer, press photographers and a handful of journalists (myself included). Although Barragán was hailed by Vogue as the designer to watch for at NYFW, there were no big names in the crowd nor was there any sort of front row seating. Considering that September is the month to showcase womenswear clothing at NYFW, it was refreshing to see men and transgendered models on the runway. Not to mention, the cast was also multi-ethnic. Based on the cast, audience and ambience, Barragán’s show flipped the middle finger to the elitist heteronormative world of the fashion industry.

Dressed in a red metallic turtleneck top and black leather skirt with lucite heels, a model pushed a papier-mâché rock up the ramp as she walked down the runway. The next model, who wore a nude ruffled shirt-turned-skirt and a black leather pocket-style bralette, pushed the rock and lifted it against the ramp. Then, she rolled it towards the end of the runway. As more models emerged, each one took turns to twist, turn and lift the ball throughout the entire hour.

Speaking of the clothes and accessories, Barragán’s garments were minimalistic in the most literal way. The most revealing ensemble in the show consisted of a smoky gray PVC one-shouldered nipple-revealing crop top, lucite heels, silver hoop earrings and black underwear. Another outfit consisted of a bi-colored orange and iridescent nude slip dress with gold hoop chains dripping from the hem. Although it was meant to be seen as a dress, it was an asymmetrical hemline with one hem above the knee and the other at the waist. A conservative day-friendly outfit comprised of a simple khaki-hued sleeveless trenchcoat dress paired with a thin silver bracelet and lucite sandals. Although minimalism heavily emphasized clean lines, solid colors and simple silhouettes, Barragán took it to the next level with cutouts, loop chains and a whole lot of pockets. Considering that these looks paralleled Maison Martin Margiela, Barragán injected inklings of 1970s punk with septum piercing-esque earrings and barbell-inspired chokers. As the cherry on top of a sundae, patches of grass were pasted to the model’s bodies alongside papier-mâché stones as handbags. Barragán’s show wasn’t just fashion: it was art.

If any aspiring fashion student wanted to exhibit their work at NYFW, go to a Barragán show, bring a pad and take some notes.